Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Honda Pan-European 1st generation (German design)

Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby teejay-st1100 » 15 Apr 2015, 18:02

Hi All, I may......and I use that phrase loosely, 'may' be having a go at changing the cambelt on my ST1100. She has 68k on the clock but I'm thinking better change it early than late.

I have a Haynes and Clymer manual plus I have read stuff written by Martin B and had emails of guidance from Roger H and others. I reckon I could do it it's just crap eyesight and confidence that is holding me back. I haven't ever even had the tupperware off! My concern is that although she is running OK I don't know whether the valve shims will need replacing as well as the carbs balancing and I wouldn't have a clue about attempting that?

I am thinking that she deserves a full engine service. My question is guys, if I chickened out on the cambelt job, shims and carbs, can anyone recommend a good mechanic who would do it? Ideally I'd like to assist if possible just really to have the chance to learn about the bike.

There are a couple of dealers in the East Yorkshire area but I'm doubtful about the thoroughness? So I am prepared to travel as far as it takes.


Regards,


Tony
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Re: Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby mbrST1100 » 15 Apr 2015, 19:09

G'Day Tony!

how've you been?

I'm sure you'll find someone to give you a hand if you keep poking around here

cheers!
Keep tires down, ATGATT, STOC# 637 (Sept.'97), PanEuro# 42 (Oct.'97), candy glory red '92 (sold), re-furbed '94 (wicked), strawberry '00 (daily)
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Re: Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby teejay-st1100 » 16 Apr 2015, 06:47

Hi Martin, I am well hope you are too.

How is that lovely country of yours?


I am sure I'll get help, otherwise I'll be knocking at your door mate!



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Re: Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby alans1100 » 16 Apr 2015, 08:34

It's not really that difficult to swap the timing belt over. Guys over here (Australia) as well as me have done it just by following the manual (Honda one for me). Mine was done at the recommended 150,000 km and still looked new (no cracks or apparent wear) so tossed it in the bin so I didn't mix it up with the new one. The hardest for me was seeing the timing marks on the crankshaft so I checked everything about three times before I put the cover back on; and it's still going.......lol

As for valve clearance I had mine checked at 120,000 km and all were still in spec though I guess now at 173,000 I should have it checked some time soon.

I borrowed one of these to do the carb balance http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Carburetor-S ... 257fc6c7f7 but only because I pulled the carbs off to replace all the hoses. The dealer that did the valve check did the carb balance as well but the bike never ran the same after that. I've improved it but it could be a little better. I only followed the instructions I was given and I found out later (from the manual) that the balance should be done at idle and not 2000 rpm; live and learn.
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Re: Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby Keith Legge » 16 Apr 2015, 16:20

Hi Tony and welcome to the site where abouts are you?
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Re: Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby teejay-st1100 » 16 Apr 2015, 16:35

Hi Keith, I am in Hull.............handy for the ferry!


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Re: Recommend Both Mechanics and DIY.

Postby David W » 18 Apr 2015, 02:49

Tony, I might recommend you try the timing belt (I mean cambelt) but leave both the the carb balancing and valve shim checking to a mechanic later. You have Alan's experience to guide you.
alans1100 wrote:It's not really that difficult to swap the timing belt over... guys over here (Australia) as well as me have done it just by following the manual (Honda one for me). Mine was done at the recommended 150,000 km and still looked new (no cracks or apparent wear) so tossed it in the bin so I didn't mix it up with the new one. The hardest for me was seeing the timing marks on the crankshaft, so I checked everything about three times before I put the cover back on; and it's still going.......
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Re: Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby teejay-st1100 » 18 Apr 2015, 12:06

Thanks David, Martin, Alan et al.

I have just managed to coax, cajole, bribe and trick my Son-in-Law into assisting me with the belt. He is adept with engines but I said I'd pay for his beer one night in the pub for helping, so it could prove a costly evening.

I'll take it steady with the tupperware Dave.

One last question guys...did you renew the radiator hoses at the same time or do they generally tend to last? If it's normal to replace them I might as well order everything from Dave Silver spares in one hit if so?

Thanks

Tony
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Re: Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby mbrST1100 » 18 Apr 2015, 13:39

teejay-st1100 wrote:...did you renew the radiator hoses at the same time or do they generally tend to last?

Normally are radiator hoses no issue Tony (replace if swollen or cut though), but there other parts of the cooling system you should aim your attention at:

- internal passages (the two hoses leading from the heads to the thermostat housing)
- the "elbows" those are attached to
- the O-rings for those
- the "bypass" hose (thin line emerging behind the t/belt case, leading up to t/stat housing)
- checking the overflow neck (again at the t/stat housing)
- checking the seal of the radiator cap
- the white radiator drain plug and its rubber seal
- the fan thermo (right above the radiator drain)

And since you need to pull the carbs to reach the cooling lines above, you might also consider 4 carb boots/isolators.
Keep tires down, ATGATT, STOC# 637 (Sept.'97), PanEuro# 42 (Oct.'97), candy glory red '92 (sold), re-furbed '94 (wicked), strawberry '00 (daily)
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Re: Recommended Mechanics or DIY?

Postby alans1100 » 18 Apr 2015, 15:46

I did the cooling system the same time as the timing belt. This will give you an idea of what I did from my post over on http://www.ozstoc.com (feel free to join if you like). http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=2977. ... 3#msg34073

The hoses that run into the V were just got to in time; one wasn't to far from failing. New hoses all round, thermostat, radiator cap, o rings where needed and the two elbows (played safe) were done as well. The coolant reserve tank was replaced as after 14 (at the time) years it was a little brittle.
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