Dragging Rear Wheel

Honda Pan-European 1st generation (German design)

Dragging Rear Wheel

Postby teejay-st1100 » 24 Apr 2016, 11:33

Hi Gents, I hope everyone is OK.

Well the sun actually came out this month and thus prompted the emergence of ST1100 from her cotton wool cocoon, also known as the 'garage'.

I started her up OK...after a few coughs and splutters and checked her over and all seemed well. I placed her on the centre stand and knocked her into first to spin her through the gears, it is just a periodical thing I do every couple of months during the time she is in hibernation as well as fettling the battery with the Optimate. I usually run her up to temperature until the fan kicks in.
I was aware of a light scraping/brushing sound coming from the rear wheel area. Actually pinpointing its source was difficult with the engine running and the exhaust sounds. I noticed the rear wheel wasn't spinning freely by hand either. Anyhow I took her out for a blast to loosen her up. Absolutely smooth engine etc, but the sound still persists. The wheel spins a little more freely but the sound is still there. So it could be brake pads scraping against the disc but I don't believe it is. I could remove any doubt as to the discs scraping by removing the pads I guess?
I personally think it is time too change the wheel bearings.....so a few questions. Is it easy to do oneself? I want to have a go myself, so can anyone recommend a decent 'bearing puller', and the correct procedure of replacing the bearings. I guy on YouTube use a Rawbolt and Lump Hammer but I don't fancy that!

Thanks Guys

Tony
teejay-st1100
Bacon Butty
Bacon Butty
 
Posts: 30
Joined: 14 Apr 2015, 16:12
Full name: Tony
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100
Year: 1998
Colour: Green

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby David Monteath » 24 Apr 2016, 12:34

I've never changed wheel bearings so can't offer any sensible suggestions. However if I leave my bike for a while and then do the same thing I hear the same noise, but I just go for a run out and it has always gone, so I'm pretty sure it's just brake pads. Could yours be binding slightly?
User avatar
David Monteath
Triple Bacon Butty
Triple Bacon Butty
 
Posts: 365
Joined: 03 Jan 2013, 17:04
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100T
Year: 1996
Colour: Black

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby Uncle Phil » 24 Apr 2016, 13:22

As you said, the quick way is to remove the brake pads (easier to remove than to put in) - which you can do without removing the wheel - and give it a spin. If it's the bearings, then it's a job, but not too bad. A really long slender 'punch' (at least that's what call them over here) to get them out hopefully some sort of press (table vise, jack, etc.) to put them in.
97 ST1100 STD +150,000 / 02 ST1100 ABS +102,000/ 97 ST1100 ABS +65,000
http://www.UnclePhil.us

"There's more to leading than being in front." - Uncle Phil
User avatar
Uncle Phil
Bacon Butty Legend
Bacon Butty Legend
 
Posts: 4406
Joined: 04 Aug 2002, 11:00
Location: Nashville, TN
Full name: Phillip Derryberry
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100
Year: 97-97-02
Colour: Red-Red-Wineberry

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby teejay-st1100 » 24 Apr 2016, 14:55

Thanks for replies Dave & Phil, after I'd initially posted I thought I need to recheck to remove the possibility of the pads actually scraping on the discs. As you suggested Guys I removed the pads and Voila! They were the culprit.

I gently prised the brake pistons back and forth and cleaned them as best I could without removing the brake caliper body. They still scrape a tad though. I spoke to my Son in Law who thinks it is purely that the bike had been stood for a few months. Hopefully the pads will actually retract again with use.

I might remove the back wheel over the coming weeks, to gain better access to the underside of the caliper to clean the lower piston with a cloth. It was strange though because normally when the bike was on its stand with the engine running the rear wheel would very slowly turn due to the engine vibrations...which is minimal I know.

Watch this space and thanks Guys.



Tony
teejay-st1100
Bacon Butty
Bacon Butty
 
Posts: 30
Joined: 14 Apr 2015, 16:12
Full name: Tony
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100
Year: 1998
Colour: Green

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby Uncle Phil » 24 Apr 2016, 18:35

Tony - FWIW, you may can remove the rear caliper without removing the rear wheel - but I've not done it directly. You back the stopper bolt out, then you would put a block under the tire and remove the axle completely out. If you can manipulate the caliper off the disc, you should be able to get it out with the wheel in place. I've found that's the easiest way to get the wheel back in and aligned - Put the wheel back in, get the axle in without the caliper, slide the wheel onto the spider gears then put the block under the wheel. Slide the axle back out, stick in the caliper back in and slide the axle back in. Also, if you remove the silencer hanging bolts on each side, that gives you enough wiggle room to get the axle in and out without a lot of drama. BTW, with three ST1100s and the mileage I ride, I've got lots of practice at it ... ;-)
97 ST1100 STD +150,000 / 02 ST1100 ABS +102,000/ 97 ST1100 ABS +65,000
http://www.UnclePhil.us

"There's more to leading than being in front." - Uncle Phil
User avatar
Uncle Phil
Bacon Butty Legend
Bacon Butty Legend
 
Posts: 4406
Joined: 04 Aug 2002, 11:00
Location: Nashville, TN
Full name: Phillip Derryberry
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100
Year: 97-97-02
Colour: Red-Red-Wineberry

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby Pan Rider Jack » 25 Apr 2016, 22:57

I'm away from main PC so don't have access to pic I have but if you decide to do the bearings yourself you don't need a bearing puller, just a slender punch (as mentioned), circlip pliers, the right size socket and a mallet. As is, chances of needing to replace the main rear wheel bearing is slim depending on use/mileage, I appear to be getting better than 100k+ miles out of one, the minor tens to last 50k ish miles (there are two different types of bearing in the rear)
Ride safe Ride free
Jack
Pan Rider Jack
Triple Bacon Butty
Triple Bacon Butty
 
Posts: 294
Joined: 10 Feb 2013, 14:49
Location: Fife
Full name: Jack Milton
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100 x 2
Year: 92 & 96
Colour: Green & White

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby David Monteath » 07 May 2016, 19:04

I found the perfect way to remove wheel bearings....give the whole wheel to the guy who is going to fit them and say this sentence...'Dave, please could you fit these new wheel bearings for me?' He was happy, I was happy the wheel remained intact and all is going along nicely. I should add that it helps hugely if the clever person is actually called Dave...if not, feel free to substitute an appropriate name.
User avatar
David Monteath
Triple Bacon Butty
Triple Bacon Butty
 
Posts: 365
Joined: 03 Jan 2013, 17:04
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100T
Year: 1996
Colour: Black

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby dankruitz » 08 Jun 2016, 19:12

I just did the front bearings on mine along with the front pads. Bearings are pretty easy, all you need is a long punch, or a regular sized one held with vice-grips to protect your hand and a ball peen hammer. (A regular nail/claw hammer isn't designed to hit metal like a punch and can fracture.)

For the rear wheel, you'll need to remove the plastic fender to give access to pull the wheel out. Its easy - only a couple of screws. Remove the rear axle and swing the caliper out of the way (far forward bolt is the 2nd one to remove the caliper. Keep track of the spacer and slide the wheel off. Punching out bearings is well documented elsewhere. ST specific tip - get yourself some MOLY PASTE (not grease) and the 3 o-rings that are used to keep moisture out and paste in. Replace the o-rings, cover the splines with moly paste reinsert the wheel and caliper and you're done. You should be able to do that in about 30-60 minutes without breaking a sweat.
dankruitz
Bacon Butty
Bacon Butty
 
Posts: 2
Joined: 08 Jun 2016, 19:05
Full name: Dan Kruitz
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100
Year: 1995
Colour: Red

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby David W » 06 Aug 2016, 23:04

teejay-st1100 wrote:... after I'd initially posted, I thought I need to recheck, to remove the possibility of the pads actually scraping on the discs. As you suggested, Guys, I removed the pads and Voila! They were the culprit....
Watch this space. and thanks, Guys.
Tony
Tony and all, this site gives you the option of changing even the title of this thread.
So you might want to now go back up to your first post, click on Edit, and change your title to read something like Dragging Rear Brake." (It might make it easier for us to follow your progress.)
'Tis not its looks, but how it cooks.
And I've found that most liter size Pans, when warmed up, cook well.
User avatar
David W
Bacon Butty Legend
Bacon Butty Legend
 
Posts: 1132
Joined: 30 Aug 2006, 04:50
Location: Topeka, Kansas, USA
Full name: David W.
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100M/P ST1100AR/S
Year: 1991/1993, 1994/1995
Colour: 2 reds; 2 are black.

Re: Wheel Bearings

Postby Pan Rider Jack » 07 Aug 2016, 20:29

David W wrote:Tony and all, this site gives you the option of changing even the title of this thread.
So you might want to now go back up to your first post, click on Edit, and change your title to read something like Dragging Rear Brake." (It might make it easier for us to follow your progress.)

Why :?:

teejay-st1100 wrote:I personally think it is time too change the wheel bearings.....

Tony was asking about changing the wheel bearings etc not a dragging rear brake, he already knew that by removing the pads the noise went away
Ride safe Ride free
Jack
Pan Rider Jack
Triple Bacon Butty
Triple Bacon Butty
 
Posts: 294
Joined: 10 Feb 2013, 14:49
Location: Fife
Full name: Jack Milton
Make: Honda
Model: ST1100 x 2
Year: 92 & 96
Colour: Green & White

Next

Return to ST1100

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron