Battery Voltage

Honda Pan-European 1st generation (German design)

Re: Battery Voltage

Postby Derek-Dex-French » 08 Oct 2014, 15:52

We now know what gets you going Pieter. Not oil. Not tyres. Electrics!
I love being right. If only it happened more often...
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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby Pieter Huizinga » 08 Oct 2014, 20:21

You have no idea how happy I am Derek to finally, after all these years, be able to take part in a tech discussion - and not about IT, but actually about motorcycles. If only Paul L. was around to witness, he'd be so proud of me. :mrgreen:

FWIW, I used to work in a shop for electronic parts when I was young. Had my share of installing, repairing and selling the stuff. You learn as you go. But I tend to keep these skills silent because I hate to be called on a Sunday by a family member or "good friend" going like: "Our TV is acting so strangely. You know about these things. Could you have a look?" ;)
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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby David W » 09 Oct 2014, 01:58

Baldeagle wrote:I have went ahead and purchased a new rectifier as everything else (wiring,connectors etc) checks out as per the manuals (Honda shop,Haynes and Clymer).
Once it arrives I'll post results,hopefully good ones. :)
Thanks for all the comments on this; they were of great help as I don't really understand electrics too well. :?
Does Bill still have the old rectifier or VRR that overheated due to overvoltage?

Does anyone in the UK want to know how to test this device? You will need an analog resistance meter, or multimeter. (Such meters have a swinging needle rather than flashing numbers.)
'Tis not its looks, but how it cooks.
And I've found that most liter size Pans, when warmed up, cook well.
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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby David Monteath » 12 Oct 2014, 20:37

Nobody will admit to having a swinging needle.
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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby David W » 29 Nov 2014, 23:58

Baldeagle wrote:... are the following readings within normal parameters?
No lights=14.6
Side lights=14.8
All lights=15.6 All taken at 2000 rpm ....
I now agree with Martin that the All lights reading quoted above is high and not normal; here is Martin:
mbrST1100 wrote:... The system should not exceed 15 V ever, as such would cook the battery (and blow the bulb filaments prematurely)....
I now agree it should not exceed 15.0 volts because I am reading a Kawasaki 2008 service manual (for the relatively new 1400GTR/Concours) about "Charging Voltage Inspection". It says:
"... note the voltage readings ... with the headlight turned on and then turned off (To turn off the headlight, disconnect the headlight connector on the the headlight unit.). The readings ... must be kept under the specified voltage.
Charging Voltage ... [is specified as] 14.4 to 15.0 V .... If the charging voltage is much higher than the values specified ..., the regulator/rectifier is defective, or the regulator/rectifier leads are loose or open...."
[from page 16-36]
I do not fully agree with that last statement because it does not mention that a faulty battery can also be the cause of a running voltage that is too high, over 15 volts. But it is the first reference I have found that says the regulator/rectifier wiring can be the problem. And that added possibility is clearly supported by the Clymer Pan/ST1100 manual, which says:
"Regulated Voltage ... (1990-1995 Models) ... If the regulated voltage exceeds specification, the regulator/rectifier may be poorly grounded, the battery may be faulty, or the regulator/rectifier is faulty." Putting those two quotes together, Bill's most likely problem is the grounding of the regulator/rectifier (assuming his battery is all right).
'Tis not its looks, but how it cooks.
And I've found that most liter size Pans, when warmed up, cook well.
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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby David W » 01 Dec 2014, 03:57

I think what happens when the light go on is that:

The voltage dips at first.

The VRR increases the alternator output by increasing the current in the rotor's coil.

The VRR stops the increase just as the voltage reaches 15 volts.

Therefore, I do not think battery voltage must decrease with loads.

I also think Bill had it whipped once before.
'Tis not its looks, but how it cooks.
And I've found that most liter size Pans, when warmed up, cook well.
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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby mbrST1100 » 01 Dec 2014, 14:19

David W wrote:The VRR increases the alternator output by increasing the current in the rotor's coil.

The pre '95/26A unit is a brush-less alternator...
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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby David W » 02 Dec 2014, 03:58

Bill once had it running at 14.98 volts with the lights on. He should try to repeat that, IMO.
-----------------
A brush is not a coil.
'Tis not its looks, but how it cooks.
And I've found that most liter size Pans, when warmed up, cook well.
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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby Baldeagle » 02 Dec 2014, 11:48

Update on the Motobatt battery.
After 24Hrs off charge the voltage reading is 12.91 volts, so it seems within parameters.

As to repeating having the bike running with 14.98 volts (lights on), I would love to see it do that but it's not happening. :(
The multimeter reads 14.95 volts on idle(1000 rpm), then still rises past 15 volts after an initial drop, when the lights are used.
If rpm increases so does the voltage, up past 16 volts. :(

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Re: Battery Voltage

Postby David W » 03 Dec 2014, 03:59

The battery looks good.
Please concentrate on proper grounding of the VRR.
'Tis not its looks, but how it cooks.
And I've found that most liter size Pans, when warmed up, cook well.
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