ST1100 Final Drive Repair

Honda Pan-European 1st generation (German design)

Re: Final Drive Repair

Postby alans1100 » 13 Dec 2013, 14:21

Ian Robinson wrote:You dont have to Alan, if a problem simply unthread the wire from the swinging arm up to the connectors on the right hand side. The you can remove/attach the hub with sensor in situ.


Thanks, that would make it so much easier..........
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Re: Final Drive Repair

Postby Forest 1100 » 13 Dec 2013, 17:57

alans1100 wrote:
Forest 1100 wrote:Alan, From what I gather, you are only swapping out the ring gear and not the pinion gear assembly also. Just a suggestion, but, with two unmatched gears that will have had different wear characteristics, you might be wise to use a synthetic gear oil in the case.


No, I'm only swapping out the gear case cover......see last picture. I need to replace this one with the one that's on my bike as the drive unit in the pictures is off of an 1100 and I have an 1100A. The A model has the ABS/TCS sensor mount integrated into the gear case cover otherwise the rest of the drive unit is identical.


OK, I got you now. This quote of yours from an earlier post threw me off - "The ring gear on my 1100 needs replacing because those splines are almost to the point of failing."

So now I understand that the used final drive unit will be used in its entirety, except for the cover plate, which is coming off your old unit.
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Re: Final Drive Repair

Postby Forest 1100 » 13 Dec 2013, 18:16

Ian Robinson wrote:Thats interesting Forest, why do you suggest synthetic - better lubrication or other advantages as well?


Pieter loves this oil talk, so I will discuss this gear oil question. For me, it was the proof of the pudding that synthetic oils of all types are far superior to dino oil.

Contained, slightly recessed, in the centre of the drain bolt, on the final drive gear case, there is a small magnet. I'm sure everyone who has ever drained their final drive and cleaned out that wee space above the magnet have found it filled with a thick, pasty, oily blob of extremely fine metal shavings. Those shavings came off the ring and pinion gears.

I noticed this for the first couple of times upon changing the drive oil, using dino gear oil, early in my bike's life. I decided to switch to a synthetic gear oil then and, ever since, that bolt comes out with absolutely no amount of shavings on that magnet. Good enough proof for me of the superior wear protection quality of synthetic oils.
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Re: Final Drive Repair

Postby mbrST1100 » 13 Dec 2013, 20:38

Forest 1100 wrote:...ever since, that bolt comes out with absolutely no amount of shavings on that magnet.

Same on the f/drives on my ST's...

Similar experiences with the engine oils in cars and motorcycles, later are even more sensitive as its shared with gear box and clutch...
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Re: Final Drive Repair

Postby alans1100 » 14 Dec 2013, 00:30

Forest 1100 wrote:
OK, I got you now. This quote of yours from an earlier post threw me off - "The ring gear on my 1100 needs replacing because those splines are almost to the point of failing."



It's not wrong as the ring gear and drive flange do need replacing and there's a few ways it can be fixed.
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Re: Final Drive Repair

Postby alans1100 » 11 Jan 2014, 11:55

Still waiting on the oil seals which are on back order before I can swap over the drive units. Can't be to far away now.
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Re: Final Drive Repair

Postby alans1100 » 22 Jan 2014, 16:01

alans1100 wrote:Still waiting on the oil seals which are on back order before I can swap over the drive units. Can't be to far away now.


Parts arrived at my door yesterday. Moved bike around into back yard this evening so I can get it done over the next day or two.

The only hold up might be the distance collar as I have to remove the one on my bike and put it in the used drive unit
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Re: ST1100 Final Drive Repair

Postby alans1100 » 24 Jan 2014, 10:29

So far everything seems to have worked out ok but I have one slight issue.

The re-fill plug has been rounded off on the unit I got from the states. It must have been removed to empty the oil and then over-tightened before shipping to me.

Unlike the plastic one that was on my bike this a metal one. Essentially the bike is back together (tow bar to refit) but off the road as I can't refill the drive unit.

Any clues on getting this out?
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Re: ST1100 Final Drive Repair

Postby Keith Legge » 24 Jan 2014, 10:35

Mine was stuck solid on the Wing had to use the Clarkson method "HAMMER" :lol:

Chiseled a groove into the outside edge (not the nut) then hammered round had to get a new cap but I assume you have a spare off the old one.
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Re: ST1100 Final Drive Repair

Postby alans1100 » 24 Jan 2014, 11:33

Keith Legge wrote:Mine was stuck solid on the Wing had to use the Clarkson method "HAMMER" :lol:

Chiseled a groove into the outside edge (not the nut) then hammered round had to get a new cap but I assume you have a spare off the old one.


Tried that idea but little bits of mettle keep falling off. It looks like it's made of aluminium.

Not much I can do about it until Tuesday since it's a holiday Monday. Australia Day......
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