LH Headlight Connection

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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby David W » 31 Jan 2018, 23:51

alans1100 wrote:Not a big deal to remove the top fairing; done it before and quite easy to replace....
alans1100 wrote:... Both left and right pieces plus headlight came off as a unit.
mbrST1100 wrote:... Ditto, upper fairing parts slip right off, with the headlight assy inside....
That's what I call the Honda way.
Uncle Phil wrote:It's the one the arrow is pointing to (number 35) - one on each side. If you try to pull the fairing off and don't know about it, you will break the tab.

Agreed. The following attachment shows one of those two bolts.
For best results when removing the uppers/headlight as one unit, leave the upper fairings attached also at the upper edge of the headlight (using bolts numbered 31 in Phil's drawing), to avoid bending the fairings and breaking those tabs. And I have started to leave the fairing piece under the headlight attached as well (to the headlight) because those "pesky bolts" make it hard to remove that piece until the unit is off the bike.
David W wrote:... I would avoid removing those two screws even though when they are tight, they [can] prevent the removal of the blue plastic piece (shaped like an inverted U) under the headlight....
(Honda does not mention that potential problem.)

All of this can require some planning; the speedometer cable runs through that inverted U piece under the headlight.
It also suggests using an assistant when taking all of that large "unit" off, or putting it back on.

On non-ABS models, it is possible to remove and re-install the "pesky bolts" with the uppers and headlight still on the bike (assuming one loosens things around the mirrors and at the rear end of the uppers). And that is even without thinking of Phil's idea of using a long extension on ones wrench. I use a 10 millimeter "nut driver" poked through the inside of the upper fairing.
'Tis not its looks, but how it cooks.
And I've found that most liter size Pans, when warmed up, cook well.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby alans1100 » 01 Feb 2018, 02:07

Uncle Phil wrote:But if you need to remove one side or the other for replacement, then there's that bolt ... :D
That's handy to know as I should replace the RH side due to a broken tab for the item 33 bolt and the LH side is ok.

The bike was dropped on that side with enough impact to crack the RH mirror cover and I guess the tab could have broken at the same time.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby David W » 01 Feb 2018, 03:42

alans1100 wrote:... I should replace the RH side due to a broken tab for the item 33 bolt, and the LH side is ok.

The bike was dropped on that side with enough impact to crack the RH mirror cover, and I guess the tab could have broken at the same time.

Alan, do you mean you have a problem with or around the small hole that is down under the front right corner of the upper fairing, where a screw goes up into the headlight unit?
'Tis not its looks, but how it cooks.
And I've found that most liter size Pans, when warmed up, cook well.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby alans1100 » 01 Feb 2018, 10:48

David W wrote:
alans1100 wrote:... I should replace the RH side due to a broken tab for the item 33 bolt, and the LH side is ok.

The bike was dropped on that side with enough impact to crack the RH mirror cover, and I guess the tab could have broken at the same time.

Alan, do you mean you have a problem with or around the small hole that is down under the front right corner of the upper fairing, where a screw goes up into the headlight unit?
No the bolt I mentioned for location purposes only is below the RH vent for the carb cooling tube. The bolt that goes in there secures the top fairing to the middle faring.

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There is a little piece missing around the bolt hole under the headlight and I put a washer there for added support when I put it all back together.

2012_1216Timing-Belt0009.JPG
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby Uncle Phil » 01 Feb 2018, 13:36

Alan - Since upper fairings are no longer available from Mother Honda in this part of the world, I carefully cut a tab off an broken one I had and used super glue and baking soda to 'graft' to the fairing I was using. It's not a 'pretty' joint, but since it didn't show I didn't mind. It's held up very well so you might try to fashion a 'replacement' of of similar material and give it a try.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby alans1100 » 02 Feb 2018, 02:59

Uncle Phil wrote:Alan - Since upper fairings are no longer available from Mother Honda in this part of the world, I carefully cut a tab off an broken one I had and used super glue and baking soda to 'graft' to the fairing I was using. It's not a 'pretty' joint, but since it didn't show I didn't mind. It's held up very well so you might try to fashion a 'replacement' of of similar material and give it a try.
Panels still available here for $AUD566 though the LH is $688. Even the anniversary Gold ones are still available at the higher price.

I used some glue (not super glue) to hold both pieces together when I put it all back together after the timing belt swap but both parts have separated a little since then but unless you're looking for the slight gap you won't see it.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby Uncle Phil » 02 Feb 2018, 12:31

Super glue (gel type) with baking soda dumped over it makes this incredible bond from the chemical reaction. I've used it for quite a while and have been very happy with the results -

http://www.unclephil.us/West2009Day05.htm

BTW that mirror cover went 5,000+ miles and I still have it and it is still in one piece! ;-)
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby alans1100 » 03 Feb 2018, 10:11

Got the rest of the bike stripped down this afternoon.Almost a total strip down just so I could fix a plug and a few other neglected items.

Disconnected the TomTom and 12volt power wiring and took it out with the grey panel that covers the back of the gauges. Power supply fuse holder had to be cut off as there wasn't enough space to pull it through - My slack solder job lasted from when it installed so I'll have to some how repeat the process. While this is visible I'll see if I can tidy up the driving light wiring a little.

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The RH filler panel is getting replaced - you can just see the crack just below the lighter area on the panel. It is repairable so I'll keep it as a spare.

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And this little beast. One plug which has seen better days. The electrical tape was there to prevent a possible short in the wiring. With everything all together I caught a hint of a bare wire and thought the feed wire to driving light relay might have been the one. That wire has been in 9 years and no trouble and as it turns out is one of two wires still connected. Can't fault the RH plug. Going re route the feed wire along the globe cable and solder it in with the new wiring.

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Now all I have to do is wait for new plugs to get here, find the new clock globe and remove that gauge cluster I
in readiness for the new coloured globes.

Blue.jpg
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby mbrST1100 » 03 Feb 2018, 12:59

Always adore the amount of sand collected in your rig Alan... ;)
Wonder about the melted connector though...
Got wet/corroded? Bad crimp to begin with? Tabs bend open while handling during bulb replacement, thus loose fit/increased resistance on the bulb's prong?
I'd check the replacement kit for proper crimping and good seat on the bulb's prongs, plus give the wire side a whiff of ACF-50 to prevent any corrosion issues...

I for one don't fancy a too bright dash illu... it would mess up my night-vision...

Fixing the plastics is a task though... don't envy you on that... :?
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby alans1100 » 04 Feb 2018, 00:50

mbrST1100 wrote:Always adore the amount of sand collected in your rig Alan... ;)

Something has to keep the bike together!! - Unless I do a complete strip down and clean every part you can't get rid of it. Most of it from my time at Port Hedland and Karratha where it picked up some red dust from some of the roads I went on. STs aren't to happy on dirt roads but sometimes you need to use them.

Wonder about the melted connector though...
Got wet/corroded? Bad crimp to begin with? Tabs bend open while handling during bulb replacement, thus loose fit/increased resistance on the bulb's prong?

We had a mouse plague last year and I was wondering if one got in there and caused some damage. One wire is still connected, one wire has broken (blue) and the wire is out of the picture and I didn't look at it.

I for one don't fancy a too bright dash illu... it would mess up my night-vision...
I don't think they're that bright in real life. It's an advertising photo to show the colour off. With my eyesight I can only read the big numbers at night and the rest are all a blur.

I like the dash lights in our car - sort of a pinkish orange - bright but not dazzling
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