LH Headlight Connection

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LH Headlight Connection

Postby alans1100 » 29 Jan 2018, 10:27

LH headlight plug broke while trying get the LH light to work - more over on OzSTOC.

Started stripping the bike today http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12504 ... msg1232911
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby Derek-Dex-French » 29 Jan 2018, 12:19

That's annoying Alan. Hope the fix goes smoothly.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby Uncle Phil » 29 Jan 2018, 16:00

I usually just loosen the upper fairings to get the headlight assembly out - a bit tricky but a real time saver. Once it's out you should be able to just solder a new connection on the existing wiring if I understand the problem.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby David W » 30 Jan 2018, 23:45

Alan, the black, plastic female headlight plugs are indeed parts of the main wire harness. That harness comes to the front on the left side of the bike. Then it runs across the front of the bike and ends at the wire for the right-hand turn signal, or winker. (I think the Honda service manual has a nice line drawing of that.)

Those meters (and indicator lights) can be removed as a unit.

I would try to detach parts from the harness, starting at the end (the right-hand turn signal), and working back towards the middle, taking photos as I go. Detach the bare harness from the metal cowl stay using a flat bladed screw driver on those plastic band straps that secure the harness to the cowl stay. Slacken and pull as much of that end of the harness out as you need to, in order to be able to access and replace the headlight wire(s) and headlight plug(s).

Slacken the fairing uppers, especially the right-hand one, to gain access, but at the same time, avoid bending those expensive plastics. The machine screws (that secure the upper fairing) at the lower rear of the headlight are very difficult to install on my ABS I model; your ABS II is no doubt the same way. I would avoid removing those two screws even though when they are tight, they prevent the removal of the blue plastic piece (shaped like an inverted U) under the headlight. So that's why I would work from the top, instead of from the bottom. And I would not remove the headlight unit.

In the long run, you should assure us that you are not running high wattage headlight bulbs. And of course, your headlight fuse should be rated at no more than the factory 20 amperes (in order to prevent the wiring and plugs from overheating).
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby alans1100 » 31 Jan 2018, 13:31

Not a big deal to remove the top fairing; done it before and quite easy to replace.

Headlight fuse is still original and no need to run higher than the standard 55/60w globes and no one stocks 40/40w globes. I think even our Honda dealers would have to order them in. Still a puzzle why we didn't get the UK headlight in Australia unless it was something to do with the parking light not being needed.

Replacing the plugs is the easy bit - the choice was either crimp new terminals on the end of the wires and fit into a new plug. My soldering sort of ok but my crimping of terminals is much worse; just have to get some of that heat shrink stuff to put over the join.

I went the other way and bought some ceramic plugs with 10cm/4 inches of wire attached and I can solder them on the ends of the current wires. Over the years I've had to replace a few globes and I think I can trim an inch or two from the OEM wires.

At the same time I can solder in the driving light relay feed wire onto the high beam circuit and I also have a new clock globe to go in; not that I can read the thing at night anyway.

At night it looks like one or two of the gauge lights are blown so I'm putting a new set in; either pink or blue LEDs on a globe base.

The grey RH filler panel is also getting replaced because it has a crack where my knee used to hit the panel when I had the OEM seat. I've had the replacement part for 18 months or so and was just waiting for the next coolant change to do it.

Because of the broken plug I can now do everything I've put off and at the same time bring the coolant change forward and as it turns out the coolant is close to the end of it's 5 year life span.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby Uncle Phil » 31 Jan 2018, 14:57

The only issue I usually have with removing the upper fairings is that pesky little bolt hidden up near the headlight. A really long extension lets me get to it and once I remove them, I never put them back. ;-)
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby alans1100 » 31 Jan 2018, 16:32

Uncle Phil wrote:The only issue I usually have with removing the upper fairings is that pesky little bolt hidden up near the headlight. A really long extension lets me get to it and once I remove them, I never put them back. ;-)


I'll check that out but I don't remember anything like that when I took mine off. Both left and right pieces plus headlight came off as a unit.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby Uncle Phil » 31 Jan 2018, 17:55

It's the one the arrow is pointing to (number 35) - one on each side. If you try to pull the fairing off and don't know about it, you will break the tab.
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby mbrST1100 » 31 Jan 2018, 19:32

alans1100 wrote:Both left and right pieces plus headlight came off as a unit.

Ditto, upper fairing parts slip right off, with the headlight assy inside...
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Re: LH Headlight Connection

Postby Uncle Phil » 31 Jan 2018, 20:06

But if you need to remove one side or the other for replacement, then there's that bolt ... :D
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