Carnage from kent, UK

Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Derek-Dex-French » 24 Jul 2014, 10:40

Hi Peter. Welcome to the board and congrats on your bike.
Just to say a number of Pan riders are going to the Motofest in Bexhill (UK) this Sunday 27 July 2014. We expect to arrive there around 1pm so feel free to join us for some fish'n chips if you can make it there. I'll pm my mobile phone number just in case as no idea how many bikes are going to turn-up and what the parking will be like, but I suspect it is going to be quite busy.
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby PeterPan » 24 Jul 2014, 11:05

Welcome Pete from Pete.

Check your front air pressures it can have an effect. I found that the newer the tyre the less the shake.

Peter.


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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby mbrST1100 » 24 Jul 2014, 20:04

Carnage64 wrote:...throttling down I relaxed and gave the ol hands a rest for a second and got the most violent and rapid head shake ive ever had the displeasure of...

- head bearings
- front wheel bearings
- worn shock bushings
- worn rear tire
- saggy rear suspension (setting, worn down shock...)
- rear wheel bearings, maybe swing-arm bearings
- tire inflation pressure
- last but not least: choice of tires...

...when id done about 38 miles of riding in rather hot weather there was a splattering of white residue on the right hand inspection panel....im suspecting a slight coolant leak once the thermostat opens...

You suspect right, most likely a crack of the overflow tube, right at the filler neck.
Easy fix: remove RHS access panel, peek up where the overflow joins the t/stat housing (you'll most likely spot the leak right there), pull the hose, cut off the time-worn 15~20mm of that hose, reattach and place the wire-clip back on.
While already kneeling there, reach up aside the RHS fork tube to access and remove the filler cap, use a funnel with a piece of garden-hose attached to the outlet to top off the radiator, when full tweak the cap back on (mind that you'll need to twist it over two notches to be fully closed)
This technique eliminates the removal of tupperware...
While already off inspect the rubber seal of the radiator cap, replace with new cap if it shows cracks...
Keep tires down, ATGATT, STOC# 637 (Sept.'97), PanEuro# 42 (Oct.'97), candy glory red '92 (sold), re-furbed '94 (wicked), strawberry '00 (daily)
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Carnage64 » 24 Jul 2014, 23:49

Derek-Dex-French wrote:Hi Peter. Welcome to the board and congrats on your bike.
Just to say a number of Pan riders are going to the Motofest in Bexhill (UK) this Sunday 27 July 2014. We expect to arrive there around 1pm so feel free to join us for some fish'n chips if you can make it there. I'll pm my mobile phone number just in case as no idea how many bikes are going to turn-up and what the parking will be like, but I suspect it is going to be quite busy.

dependant on how investigations go i may well turn up ...will give you a call if i do.
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Carnage64 » 26 Jul 2014, 11:19

Well here we are ...took a trundle out to Adinkirke, Belgium last night with she who must be obeyed riding shotgun, here what i found ...front tyre is going to be first to be replaced , its near its limit and is suspect for the feeling that the bike is hinged in the middle, its an Avon storm ultra 2 and while i dont take things on t'interweb as gospel ive seen a few reviews stating how they loose thier stability towards the end of thier lives causing such issues as im having.( and the dealer is going halves on the cost and is fitting it)
the coolant leak thing ...only does it once on evey outing...hmmm as advised im goging to be checking the hoses later today, looking at the overflow pipe specifically for that tell tale sign, however i shall be removing the tupperware so i can get a good look at things and also give the sides of the rad a good clean inspection and then re paint, from what i can see throught the plastics its in pretty shoddy condition down the sides and i only hope i dont have a pin hole in the metal thats sealing once she is warmed up. anything over a split repairable hose is going to be the dealers problem.
had a little problem with the clutch as we set off last night, initial pull away it snatched , second attempt ...it snatched ...third attempt...no problem and ran problem free for the rest of the journey, going to give it a bleed through and clean any parts up that look as though they may be crud bound.After that itll go back to the stealers i bought it from and they can sort it...( 3 months warranty still in force)
front brake has good abilioty to bring the thing to a halt however it does seem there is virtually no play at all on pad to disc i.e you touchthe lever and the brakes are on, im wondering if the pistons in the caliper are not returning correctly or is this a trait of the pan.
i shall also be looking at checking the carbs for balance as she after our first decent run i felt she had moments of hesitation as if something had to catch up before being on song...not drastic but ..i have a feel for these things.
all advise welcome.
now before anyone says its all a dealers problem, i have a long and understanding relationship with the dealer and find as long as i inform him of any thing i find he is happy for me to investigate ( my preference also as i then have peice of mind ) and in the event of being major i can give him the task of rectifying, in the event of minor then he supplies the part and i sort it. in my minid its a win win situation , i achieve an education of the bikes parts and workings without too much cost, a database of what has or has not been replaced and he gets to keep his mechanic busy doing purile jobs for those who cant be bothered to learn how to change a spark plug. after all when the warranty expires in 3 months ive got to keep the bike in good order myself anyway. so why go through the rigmerole of taking the bike to him obtain a lift home lose the bike for a day or so when i can probably do half of it myself in a day at home in the knowledge that ive put new pads in, coppergreased were required, tightened all bolts,renovated that scratch that will only rot if left and covered back up by plactics blah blah blah. Its a good thing to know your steed with its clothes off. :D
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Pieter Huizinga » 26 Jul 2014, 11:43

mbrST1100 wrote:
Carnage64 wrote:...throttling down I relaxed and gave the ol hands a rest for a second and got the most violent and rapid head shake ive ever had the displeasure of...

- head bearings
- front wheel bearings
- worn shock bushings
- worn rear tire
- saggy rear suspension (setting, worn down shock...)
- rear wheel bearings, maybe swing-arm bearings
- tire inflation pressure
- last but not least: choice of tires...

...when id done about 38 miles of riding in rather hot weather there was a splattering of white residue on the right hand inspection panel....im suspecting a slight coolant leak once the thermostat opens...

You suspect right, most likely a crack of the overflow tube, right at the filler neck.
Easy fix: remove RHS access panel, peek up where the overflow joins the t/stat housing (you'll most likely spot the leak right there), pull the hose, cut off the time-worn 15~20mm of that hose, reattach and place the wire-clip back on.
While already kneeling there, reach up aside the RHS fork tube to access and remove the filler cap, use a funnel with a piece of garden-hose attached to the outlet to top off the radiator, when full tweak the cap back on (mind that you'll need to twist it over two notches to be fully closed)
This technique eliminates the removal of tupperware...
While already off inspect the rubber seal of the radiator cap, replace with new cap if it shows cracks...

Martin, I have often wondered why you haven't opened your own ST repair shop. Your subject knowledge borders on encyclopedic.
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby zebedeee » 26 Jul 2014, 13:57

Pete

Brakes on mine are progressive, no snatchiness, so suspect you have an issue there. PS mines ABS but not heard of non ABS having an ON/OFF feel.

Carb Balancing - some manuals incorrectly state to balance all four carbs, BUT Number 1 is fixed and other three are balanced individually to that by the use of three adjuster screws. A lot of people use a flow meter stuck in the inlet tubes (seen when taking air filter cover off) as a way to balance them, which is how I do it myself. Plenty of info on here about carb balancing with views of which screws to adjust......basically just need a long flat screwdriver (cant remember if a cross head fits as Ive always used a flat one).
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Carnage64 » 27 Jul 2014, 07:08

Well....that was fun ..... how many fixings ???? :o ...ok the coolant leak .....not the overflow but certainly in the right area ...return from the thermostat housing was loose and had not been pushed on all the way home, cleaned up and attached correctly and tightened ...jobs a good un.
radiator sides ....basically devoid of any protection and very furry ...what seemed like powder coat had just gone to rubber and peeled off, good clean up and generous coat of high temp enamel and it looks much better, while i was at it gave the exaust sheilds a quick lick too, they didnt look too bad if im honest but going on the old addage of prevention is better than cure i figured it cant hurt. all those points around the frame, brackets ...weld joints and wear points with surface rust appearing also got a quick clean and touch up.
carbs balanced ...not that they were too far out ( a cross head can be used Dave :yes: ) so its a penny saving thing for a trip to the dyno centre and possibly a re jet to better suit the non baffled delkavics , no HP gains expected just improved delivery of whats already available....( views and comments welcome on that please)
a little peek inside the slave on the clutch found a build up of what seemed like dried out grease ...gave it a good clean out applied a smidgen of redrubber grease to the push rod and re assembled ( another little job out of the way ).
rear brake...now this is one ive not mentioned ...pedal travel was enourmous and virtually no brakes ....bleeding this is a pain in the arse..and after much shouting at the wife to listen and press the pedal when told and hold when told i have a bit better pressure on the pedal but not what i would call great. i noticed the rear caliper seems very sloppy ( i can get hold of it and move it about quite freely ) any tips?
by the time it came to bolting the tupperware back on time had flown by and i didnt get a look at the front brakes so thats to come. :stormcloud:
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Carnage64 » 27 Jul 2014, 10:34

Well....that wasnt too bad ....actually found part of the answer to my rear brake issue in an old thread on here ....turns out the shim between the pads and the piston was giving the brake pedal the spongey feel ...removed and tossed to one side and i have a more positive brake :D ( it pays to search around a bit before diving in).
The front brakes well they just needed the pistons cleaning up....one piston either side was solid and would not return under thumb pressure...pistons pushed out and cleaned with brake fluid and a q tip..red rubber grease applied to piston and pistons worked in and out a few times and i was able to push all pistons back under thumb pressure. :D :D
rear caliper movement seems to down to excessive wear on the slide bolts so ill be ordering new ones...no doubt thats not the end of things ...once we return to the clod and nasty weather ill probably strip the brakes completely and rebuild with new seals and change the aged rubber lines for braided.
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Pieter Huizinga » 27 Jul 2014, 13:44

Glad to hear that our archives helped you out there!
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