Carnage from kent, UK

Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Carnage64 » 23 Jul 2014, 13:24

Hi All,
Been and found myself a nice 1999 St1100 in fairly good nick, been riding since i was 17 now hitting the big 50 and decided id had enough of modifying and polishing muscle bikes, ( bandits and GSX 1400) so tried the sports bike scene and found id left it too late and my wrists just dont mould well with them, following a year with an Aprilia falco SL1000 and a few track days on a zxr400 ( now that was a hoot), had a short time with a ZZR1100 but it had fueling issues following a year out in the rain by its previous owner and although ridable it was becoming an investment i wasnt enjoying and so i turned to the Pan, love the smoothness of it and the fact the other half has renewed her desire to come out now and again, still in the throws of re adjusting my riding style but im reckoning this could be my settling ground now. looking forward to nagging you seasoned owners for info on a bike that has for me a rather unorthadox build being its shaft driven ( i already understand there are some pitfalls to avoid ) ...so whats been done thus far .....brake lines bled through, replaced rear pads,fork oil replaced, fork seals replaced, plugs filters and oil replaced,fork lowers cleaned up and resprayed , rear shock un seized and cleaned up, battery replaced, heel plates cleaned off and polished,satnav mount hard wired and hard mounted to handle bar cowling, additional charging socket installed under seat for pillion to compliment existing one on fairing by riders leg, mahoosive touring screen replaced with smoked standard size one, leather tank cover in found and cleaned and fitted, givi V47 topbox aquired and fitted, hazard lights switch aquired and cut into left hand fairing panel and connected, motad end cans removed and replaced with brand new Delkavic 300mm stubby cans ( i still cant remove the fact i prefer to hear my bikes and be heard by other road users).
Further things to be done .......replace all brake and clutch lines with braided steel lines, eventually replace brake discs all round, recover aging seat with custom seat cover, aquire and fit fast flow air filter, save pennies and replace exhaust headers and collector box with Delkavic stainless ones, re jet carbs and dyno tune, remove swinging arm, clean off and apply better protection in the form of re prime, stonechip and overcoat with gloss and laquer,strip plastics off over winter months and renovate frame where required, possibly fit rear fog light to utilise second switch on left hand fairing, possibly aquire and fit givi brake light kit to topbox, maybe locate and aquire a calibrated speedo, replace worn footpeg rubbers thengenerally go through the bike with a fine tooth comb and find anything else i can do.
looking forward to some general banter and picking apart of brains.
Carnage....aka Pete
Rust is lighter than carbon Fibre
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby zebedeee » 23 Jul 2014, 15:10

Welcome Pete, your first few posts have to be approved by a moderator, which I have done for this one. Just be aware replies may not too quick fro your first 3 (i think) posts until we approve it, then you can wade in and throw abuse at other members...:-)

You seem to be on top of things with your future plans. Very reliable bikes, mines done 110,000 miles and not really needed much more than corrosion damage repairs.
Exhaust, swingarm checked and waxoyled. At approx 60,000 miles check front and right rear wheel bearings (£10 each and are prone to go at those miles), also if you have not had these bikes before use Honda Moly grease on the drive splines every time you remove the wheel or they will wear out at 60,000 miles.

happy riding.
David Whitley - 2001 ST1100AY - 106000miles
https://sites.google.com/site/wildwesttour2009/
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby alans1100 » 23 Jul 2014, 17:07

Hi Pete, Welcome aboard from abroad.......wild wet and wintry South Australia

I must admit the post title threw me off a little. I was expecting a road accident not a new member.......

I have the same year as yours only mines the ABS variant. One thing you may need to do is the timing belt. Should be done about every 150,000 kms (90,000 +/- miles). Best to do it unless you know it's been done if the mileage is around that figure. Wouldn't hurt to check your coolant hoses. Two of them run between the V and under the carbs (need to remove to change hoses) to each cylinder bank. I was lucky, mine made to the timing belt change over.
OzStoc Member ( http://www.ozstoc.com ) FarRider No. 921

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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby zebedeee » 23 Jul 2014, 17:19

Pete

Just a quick update, as you said you had already replaced the silencers and were thinking of changing the header pipes...........I think the original header pipes are already stainless steel, it was just everything after that, from the collector which were made of rotting tin. So depending on what has been done with your collector you might be ok.
David Whitley - 2001 ST1100AY - 106000miles
https://sites.google.com/site/wildwesttour2009/
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Keith Legge » 23 Jul 2014, 17:43

Welcome Pete sounds like you have everything in hand. 8-)
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby mbrST1100 » 23 Jul 2014, 17:51

G'Day...

a proper timing belt job would include idler-, spanner-pulley and water-pump... m2c... depending on age, mileage, conditions of use, etc...

Coolant must be silicate free, thermostat, filler cap, drain plug + gasket on the radiator, the "elbow" fittings + O-rings on the heads, check/replace all coolant houses and the overflow tube...

I think braided lines are overrated, a proper bleeding procedure with quality brake liquid and well maintained/overhauled callipers/masters have way more effect... OEM rotors and pads ensure beST performance, even after the 20st hairpin while streaming down the Stelvio...

Replace hub dampers + aluminium inserts if tranny line shows a slag (normally throttle/clutch are directly connected to the road), otherwise the shifting might get noisy...

Moly 40/60 for the drive splines is religious; and check the 3 O-rings while at it...

Check wheel bearings on any occasion the wheels get removed, and pack seal with marine grease...

If one really wants to tune an ST, get a suspension upgrade... costly though, but that's about the only real improvement one can make on this famous sport tourer...
My '00 has Hyperpro fork springs (7W oil) and the bells & whistles Wilbers rear shock kit, with piggyback and hydraulic pre-load adjuster... that stuff rocks... especially if one likes to chase some weekend-warriors on their super-sports through Alpine roads 8-) much fun to surprise them on that "Gentlemen express" :lol:
The OEM suspension isn't bad per se (I've another '94 in the hangar), but in comparison it rides like a sofa... ;)
Nice, comfy and stress free though, but lacks in precision when carving though hairpins or urge to whack it through fast corners, you'll sand off too much material on the deck... peg feelers, main-stand plates, belly pan... some (not me) even manage to grind down their crash-bars (I'd probably too if I'd care to test it on a track, but public roads require more reserves)...

Check/replace the bronze fork bushings, their neglected way too often (I swap them every 36~48Tkm)...

Pivot of brake pedal, pivot of shifter lever and the ball-joints of the shifter linkage are points to clean and lube (Moly 40/60 or quality marine-grease...)

I strongly recommend to check mixture when opting for that K&N air filter; I'd tried one for like 400km once and ended up with snow white spark plugs :shock:
Flew out at the spot, back to OEM... (despite that my idle is 1/8th turn on the rich side to improve throttle response)

And get the 2nd air duct from the <'92 models...

New carb boots and check for vacuum leaks like the diaphragm of the auto-fuel valve... quality rep kit avail at NRP...

Valve check, carb sync... good to go...

Reasonable sized windscreen is a good plan, a Givi can however be responsible for waving at m/way speeds when riding solo...

Selection of tires might raise religious debates... I'm sworn in on my G546/547...

Ditto on oil, the quality stuff does help though (using BelRay since '92...)

Loud cans? uhmm... on long hauls they get very annoying soon... drove me nuts when the baffle plates started to rot on my prev '92...
Keep tires down, ATGATT, STOC# 637 (Sept.'97), PanEuro# 42 (Oct.'97), candy glory red '92 (sold), re-furbed '94 (wicked), strawberry '00 (daily)
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Pieter Huizinga » 23 Jul 2014, 18:30

:welcome38:
Welcome to the asylum Peter!
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Carnage64 » 23 Jul 2014, 19:39

Thanks for the Welcome guys :D Mbr ...nice line up of things to take care of ...ill visit the bank manager in the morning and discuss a remortgage :lol:
just been out for a bimble ...ok I gave her a little push here and there and I appear to have a bit of front end issue , throttling down I relaxed and gave the ol hands a rest for a second and got the most violent and rapid head shake ive ever had the displeasure of ...not nice...will be looking at the front tyre as I know its due renewal ( its an Avon something or other) obviously bushes both wheel and headstock and front brake lever seems very very solid although seems to work very effectively so ill check the pistons to make sure they are retracting properly . also noticed when id done about 38 miles of riding in rather hot weather there was a splattering of white residue on the right hand inspection panel ....im suspecting a slight coolant leak once the thermostat opens...open to suggestions before I start ripping unnecessary stuff off just yet
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby zebedeee » 23 Jul 2014, 22:05

Quite a few people have complained of a wobble at approx 40mph while decelerating with no hands on the bars....there is a cure...........put your hands back on the bars.
David Whitley - 2001 ST1100AY - 106000miles
https://sites.google.com/site/wildwesttour2009/
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Re: Carnage from kent, UK

Postby Carnage64 » 23 Jul 2014, 22:16

Lol.....I assure you if I hadnt grabbed the bars with my hands I think my arse would have done it for them...however in over 30 yrs of riding I have always taken a bikes ability to hold a straight line when one removes ones hands from the bars to be a good indication that all is as it should be and I quite often do this (OBVIOUSLY WITH CLEAR ROADS ONLY) just as a guide nothing is in need of attention.pretty much in the same way as before buying a new car ill take it for a test drive and at soem point perform a very hard braking manouvre to ensure everything pulls straight, that the abs works and tht no unexpected noises occur.
Rust is lighter than carbon Fibre
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